Big flavours on a small island
Chef William Hellgren’s story reads like a feel-good movie. He grew up on the small island of Korpo, fell in love with cooking, trained in renowned fine dining restaurants in Stockholm, and eventually returned home to take over the family business – a small historic hotel, Nestor, named after his great-grandfather.
In 2016, William opened his restaurant Back Pocket at Hotel Nestor. Today, he runs it with his spouse Sandra.
Korpo lies in the Turku archipelago, and travelling there feels like stepping back in time. However, the same can’t be said about the dishes William creates. Restaurant Back Pocket is aptly named: it’s secluded and full of surprises, serving archipelago-inspired cuisine with a modern flair.
“Our food is playful and not very traditional. While using local ingredients, I like to incorporate Asian, especially Japanese influences. Combining those umami flavours with the creaminess of Nordic cuisine,” William explains.
The six-course tasting menu changes with the seasons. In early summer, William uses wild herbs, rhubarb, new potatoes, edible flowers, and asparagus from the nearby Åland Islands. Later, it’s time for apples, plums, mushrooms, and root vegetables.
“Last summer I fell in love with strawberries. We buy them fresh every day from a nearby farm, and they’re the best you’ll ever taste,” William promises.
In the Finnish archipelago, food is simple but rich in flavour. Smoked fish and herring are staples. The traditional archipelago bread is malty, sweet, and dark. It pairs perfectly with a Nordic summer classic, Skagen made with shrimp.
“All visitors should try new potatoes with chives and crème fraîche, alongside herring and smoked rainbow trout. Personally, I love archipelago bread with brown butter. It has a nutty, caramel-like flavour,” William suggests.
Some Finnish flavours are completely unique, and you might find tar or spruce on the menu. William’s sea buckthorn–liquorice ice cream is about as Finnish as it gets.
Summer is the high season, but William and Sandra host visitors all year round. In winter, there’s a special kind of romance in the air – and the food might get even better.
“Think meat and game, stewed and cooked for hours, served with root vegetables and mushrooms.”