Lapland’s magic makes people fall in love, leave their old lives behind, and pursue happiness by living in harmony with nature. That’s what happened to Sirly Ylläsjärvi, a world-travelled Finnish MasterChef competitor. Sirly has called Ylläs, Lapland, her home since 2009. There, she realised her dream of opening a restaurant of her own.
Restaurant Elsa, named after her husband’s grandmother, offers a fine dining experience rooted in Arctic nature. There’s just one communal table, and the impressive fireplace used for cooking creates a cosy atmosphere. “I feel incredibly lucky to live and work here. Nature is the most important thing for me, and there, stress disappears. Lapland feels like a completely different world”, she reflects.
Sirly’s life in the north might be grounded, but her culinary ambitions haven’t slowed down. On the contrary, she spends her time foraging in the wild, working with local producers, and finessing her craft. Food in Lapland is all about simplicity. Local ingredients are naturally full of flavour and packed with vitamins and antioxidants. “In Finland, ingredients are respected. Flavours aren’t hidden. You can taste that there’s nothing extra”, Sirly says. “Pure food makes you feel better. A holiday here is about calming down. What you put in your body should bring peace”, she explains.
According to Sirly, the best ingredients to taste in Lapland are reindeer, white fish and roe, and local Lappish potatoes, puikulaperunat. “White fish is a Lappish delicacy, same with Arctic char and trout. Vendace roe is so delicious. People rave about caviar, but this is heavenly too. I recommend trying dill with fish and roe,” she enthuses. “Reindeer tartare is a must-try. The taste is so pure it doesn’t need cooking, only salt and pepper,” she adds.
Reindeer is a staple in the local diet. These semi-wild animals have been herded by the Sámi for millennia, a traditional livelihood still very much alive. Reindeer stew, poronkäristys, or dried reindeer meat can be found everywhere, and reindeer fillet might be served instead of beef at restaurants.
Traditionally, every part of these magnificent animals has been utilised, and Sirly aims to support this practice. Her favorite is the tender, fatty tongue. “Our reindeer tongue burger is simmered for hours and then pan-fried, served in a small brioche with fermented garlic aioli and caramelised onion. Our guests love it,” she says with a smile.
In summer, golden cloudberries are a unique treat. Sirly’s favourite food season is fall, when mushrooms and berries fill the forests. At restaurant Elsa, guests can even pick blueberries themselves for their ice cream, made from the milk of the rare Lappish cows. On the dessert menu you might also find leipäjuusto, bread cheese, served warm with cinnamon and cream or cloudberries. Sirly prefers the authentic way to enjoy it – dunking it in hot coffee.